Meet the man behind Modern French Onion Soup

“It comes with a dollop of ice cream,” I heard myself snigger in response to my husband’s raised eyebrows. We were discussing a favourite, French onion soup. Now, when you think of French onion soup, you are probably thinking of a warm, hearty dish with a dash of bread and Gruyère.

Unless you are, like we were, at Bord Eau by Nicolas Isnard at Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, Abu Dhabi. The Michelin-starred chef, who has a reputation for upending the familiar to create distinctly French dishes using modern techniques, explains: “The idea for the onion soup originated from the concept of the “trou normand,” traditionally served with a sorbet and calvados to aid digestion. Onion, with its natural sweetness and digestive properties, inspired the ice cream element. It became so successful that we now serve it as a starter, setting the tone for the rest of the menu with an element of surprise.”

The chef, who likes to play with flavours, adds: “Experimentation is constant in the kitchen, and recently we’ve been exploring how to enhance classic dishes with unexpected textures and flavours.”

Isnard, whose love for cooking followed him from his grandmother’s kitchen to the ones he manages (and owns) now, is influenced by Mediterranean flavours and his travels over the years. Recently, he and France's youngest Michelin star chef, Turac Ludovic, held a ‘four-hand dinner’ experience at Abu Dhabi’s Shangri-La Qaryat Al Beri, where guests were treated to Isnard’s Modern Onion Soup and Ludovic’s signature Aioli. “It’s an opportunity to showcase our shared passion for cuisine in an exclusive dining experience,” he said of the event.

One might think that having international awards and people lining up to eat at one of your restaurants would lead to a big ego, but when we ask Isnard about what it takes for a chef to become successful, he’s quick to say: “I wouldn’t say I’ve reached the pinnacle of success; there’s always more to learn and achieve. But I believe success comes from passion, love, and humility. If you bring those into your work every day, the rest follows naturally. Alongside perseverance and patience, building human connections and being adaptable are essential to growing as a chef.”

The passion for food shines through – as it should; it is, says Isnard, “his life’s work”. That’s not to say he hasn’t thought about alternate careers. “Cooking is my passion and my life’s work. But I also love photography, sports, poker, and writing. If I hadn’t pursued a culinary career, perhaps I would have been a sports journalist or photographer — fields where creativity and storytelling are just as important.”

The hospitality industry is notoriously tough on daily routines, with chefs (and staff) often having to forego time with their loved ones in favour of their kitchens. “I am fortunate to have found a balance. Spending time with my wife and children is a priority. Whether through activities or travel, I make sure to have quality moments with my family. It helps me maintain perspective and keeps me grounded,” asserts Isnard.

Like all people who love the process of cooking, of drawing out flavours, of mixing textures and crafting new tastes, Isnard has a pet peeve. “It’s work that lacks passion. In my experience, it takes less time to do things well than to do them poorly. If something isn’t done with love and precision, it will have to be redone — and that frustrates me. The kitchen is a place where attention to detail should never be compromised.”

He's more forgiving of amateurs though. For them, he has simple advice: “Have fun. Cooking should always be an enjoyable experience.”

As an award-winning chef – at 27, he had already been named Young Talent of the Year by Gault&Millau and he is also a Michelin-starred chef - he is no stranger to the pressure of doing well. “Consistency and creativity are the greatest challenges. As a Michelin-starred chef, you're always in the spotlight, which means constantly striving to innovate while main-taining the highest standards. It’s not just about cooking; it’s about leadership, managing the business side of things, and staying organised.

“But the highlights are endless. Each day presents a new opportunity to excel and create something extraordinary. For me, ambition and setting new goals are essential. Every day must be better than the last.”